Thursday, September 27, 2007

Paris

Our primary goal is Paris was to sight see and eat. I've got lots of eating notes. Sightseeing not so much.

Here's a rundown of our eating experiences:

Angelina - we had been told my many people to check this out and it happened to be right around the corner from our hotel Rue de Rivoli. Tourist trap? yes. But if you know the language, they are quite nice. I did and was able to navigate my way at the front counter completely in French. Although one morning I ended up with some kind of pear pastry that I had not intended to order. But, like the Soup Nazi, it's best to order, pay and move on. Ask no questions.


I had done extensive research on restaurants in Paris. I researched and cross referenced from all sources. CityCrab left this completely in my hands and as we rode the Eurostar to Paris, I thought I was set on where we would eat. But, we ended making some game time decisions that worked in our favor.

First night, we went to Le Severo. It was a last minute decision. We didn't make a reservation, we schlepped over the 14 arrondisement and we found a small slice of heaven waiting for us. It is located on the corner with windows lining both walls. There's maybe 10 tables inside and when we entered (around 9pm) there was one long table filled with what looked like university students, drinking, smoking, eating, laughing - living carefree Parisian life. We were met by a man in a white butcher's coat. I got the sense that he did not speak English (I was right). I pulled out my best high school French (Merci, Monsieur Betts) and proceeded to have a complete conversation with him. His name is Guillaume and he's the owner. At his recommendation, we dined on goat cheese & fresh greens, steak frites (prepared 2 ways), sauteed mushrooms and a carafe of house red wine. Delicious. I didn't even crave ketchup for the frites. Then Guillaume did something that endeared me to him. He sat down at our booth, gave me a locals restaurant book and told us where to eat. He instructed me that when I got back to the hotel, I need to ask the concierge to make a reservation at these restaurants tonight and to tell them that Guillaume sent me. I double cheek kissed him on the way.

The next night didn't start until quite late. Our second day in Paris started early and we didn't end our sightseeing portion until 7pm or so. When we got back to the hotel, we made a reservation at Chez Denise. We were scheduled to eat at Bistro Paul Bert since we had heard great things about it but decided, again last minute, not to. At about 10pm we walked into Chez Denise. It is located in Les Halles section (essentially the meat packing district of Paris). You would have thought it was 8pm. The place was packed, the tables were so close you couldn't tell where one group ended and another began. We immediately felt rejuvenated. I could also tell we were the only Americans in there. I love a good find like this. We started with foie gras. At the waiter's recommendation, I had the beef kebab (a special) and CityCrab ordered the marinated steak. When we asked for frites, he gave us "bien sur" which is French for "of course, what do you think we wouldn't serve you frites!" This was all accompanied by a couple of carafes of house red. We made conversation with the table next to us. At first in French (I love when people think we're locals) then in English when the French got too hard to understand (or I got too drunk.) Our tablemates lived in Paris but originally from Martinique. We tumbled out of there close to 12 then walked all the way home. Another great find.

Uh-oh. I've done it. I've put you to sleep with my slideshow.

Our last night, we ate at L'Absinthe. A recommendation from some friends. Located in a small square not too far from our hotel. Had much more of an American feel to it. All the waitstaff spoke English and we were seated in between Americans. Food was good. Something different from the steak frites we had had the previous 2 nights. With all that Paris has to offer, not sure I would go back. Michel Rostang, is wellknown chef(a Parisian Mario Batali of sorts) and has a couple of restaurants in Paris, each run by one of his daughters. I would likely try another one of his places next time.

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