My paternal grandmother was a good cook. She was not a chef, certainly not by any definition we know today. She was consistent. She used the basics: butter and oil and white flour. She was born in this country but to immigrant parents so she had lots of old world recipes. The old world being Hungary. Between my mother, my aunt and even my father, we have a lot of her recipes. The challenge is that since she was not a trained cook, she cooked by
feeling. As such, her recipes go something like this: a handful of this, some of that until it
looks right. My aunt has some of her recipes written down. For example, she has my the brisket recipe that my grandmother was able to squeeze out of Mendel, circa 1950 kosher butcher to the stars, written on the paper they used to wrap meat. But, I am not here to talk brisket - that would be way too controversial. With Chanukah right around the corner, my focus is turning out latkes for a 1st night feast.
The key to cooking these latkes does not lie in the ingredients alone. Preparation is vital. Over the years, we have all tried to cut corners. Who wants to break their back hunched over a grater turning 10lbs of potatoes into shreds? I know from experience (mine and others) that a Cuisinart, a mandolin or ricer will not yield the delicious latkes of my youth. So, I use a box grater and I grate and grate down to my bleeding knuckles. Here is the recipe, again, with no measurements. That just adds to the charm.
Figure about 1 potato per person. Grate potatoes on a box grater using the largest shred side. Grate directly into the bowl. Drain any liquid that has accumulated by just pouring it out of the bowl.
For every 4-5 potatoes you use, grate 1/2 an onion, using the same grater side, directly into the bowl.
If you are using at least 4 potatoes (and who bother doing this for less than that?) then mix in 2 eggs. Next come the tricky part. You can use either white all-purpose flour or matzah meal and throw in at a handful at a time. Mixing until it looks like it is coming together. You don;t want it too thick and the liquid should still be loose not pasty. See? I told you thi way of cooking is really hard.
Then ground in lots of black pepper. Salt is optional.
Next, cover a heavy bottomed pan with oil. You are frying after all. Use either vegetable or canola. Paging
Dr. Agatston. It should be about 1/4" deep. Oil needs to be hot. Then lift out the latke batter using a large fork and place into hot oil. Theo first batch is considered a lost leader. Use this to taste the batter and make seasoning adjustments, if necessary.
Draining the latkes is very important. My grandmother used paper grocery bags. And that is what I use. I "forget" my recyclable bags for 2 weeks prior to Chanukah so I can stock up on paper bags. As the edges of the latkes begin to brown in the oil. flip them (carefully) and allow both sides to brown. Then remove them and place them on the paper bags to drain. Then they can be placed on a cookie sheet and in a warm oven until ready to serve.
Clean up is a nightmare. There is now way around it. You will have oil splattered everywhere. Your hair will smell, your kitchen will smell and your clothes will smell. It's worse than fajita night at Chili's. But when you sit down and eat them you will forget at that because these will be the best latkes you will ever taste.
Other Chanukah serving selections include fried chicken or chicken tenders. Since the miracle of Chanukah is that there was enough oil to last 8 days, this holiday is centered around fried food. So, donuts or
sufganiyah are another popular item. I serve my latkes old school with sour cream and apple sauce. And, I'll whip up a batch of coleslaw just to get some vegetables in there but I always have it left over.
From there it's on to gelt and gifts. Then clean up just in time for the second night. Just kidding. I only serve latkes the first night. I can only channel my grandmother so often - she gets tired, too.
